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Barcelona Cruise Passengers – Planning a Modern Architecture Tour

Sunday, August 22, 2010 1:36 AM Posted by Andy Subandono

Luckily for those passengers docking into Barcelona for the day, most of the Modernista architecture can be viewed within a day. Barcelona is a very accessible city, with public transport being both cheap and easy to use. The easiest way to head into the heart of the Modernista’s paradise is hopping on the green line metro, line 3, a short stroll from the cruise terminal to the bottom of Las Ramblas – the old town’s main thoroughfare. From here, take just 4 stops up to Diagonal metro stop and walk outside onto Passieg de Gracia.

You will be greeted with an expanse of grid-shaped blocks in the neighbourhood known as Eixample, which roughly translates as “widening” or “expansion”. This is Barcelona’s largest neighbourhood, extending out from the old city walls to the small-town neighbourhoods that were once known as outside villages. Designed by Ildefons Cerdà exactly 150 years ago, Eixample was the playground for wealthy investors to show off their financial clout in constructing striking buildings which stood out from their neighbours. Building’s such as Antonin Gaudi’s Casa Batllo and Casa Mila sit as neighbours on Passieg de Gracia street – both proud owners of UNESCO World Heritage Status, and buildings which challenge architecture and it’s standard forms in different ways.

Eixample is also home to what has become known as the “manzana de discordia” or the block of discord, so called as it has the most diverse examples of Modernista architecture in such a small radius – an Eixample block. Casa Battlo is included in this fine list, as well as Casa Amatller designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch and Lluis Domenech i Montaner’s Casa Lle? Morera. Domenech at the time was much more famous than Gaudi, who has undoubtedly taken the limelight since his death, and is also responsible for two of the other nine UNESCO World Heritage Sites the city has to offer – the Palau de la Musica Catalana in the old town, and Hospital Sant Pau, which is close to Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia.

The easiest way to see all of these buildings is to simply stroll down Passeig de Gracia in the direction of the port, and stop to view each individual masterpiece as you go along. Casa Mila is definitely worth the entrance fee, with a period apartment, blueprints and original sketches in the attic, and the magnificent rooftop terrace with Gaudi’s unmistakeable chimneys in honour to Saint George – a theme used in many of his buildings, given that George is the patron saint of Catalonia. From the rooftop you will also spy across town the spires of the Holy Family Cathedral – Barcelona’s most famous landmark, and your next destination.

If you fancy a spot of lunch or some Spanish Tapas whilst you’re on Passeig de Gracia, then dive in, as this street has some of the best Tapas restaurants in town! Then head down into Passig de Gracia metro station, and take the Purple Line, line 2, over to Sagrada Familia. Those unfamiliar with metro systems or nervous about using public transport in a foreign city need not worry – Barcelona’s metro system is so easy, with just 5 main lines, all colour coded and named line 1 to 5! The stop for Sagrada Familia is also named after the cathedral itself, so it couldn’t be easier!

Even for those not particularly interested in architecture, the Sagrada Familia Cathedral is a jaw-dropping experience. The nativity and Crucifixion facades offer a stark contrast to each other, but still seem perfectly possible to be in the same building. Gaudi’s unfinished masterpiece is easily worth an afternoon and the downstairs museum space has many photos of when building work commenced, scale models of what the cathedral will look like upon completion, and Gaudi’s grave in the crypt, too. Don’t worry if queues are too long for the lifts up inside the spires, and spend more time exploring the inside of the cathedral and its intricate details. If you can, follow a guide, or read extensively about the inside – Gaudi left an incredible amount of intricate detail which can often so easily be overlooked. Talk about saving the best for last!

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